Day 20 – Starting and ending with a high

Trip odometer: 1,802km

We woke up at our beautiful campsite, technically on a tiny island of just us according to Google Maps, to rain. As usual. Departing late, at 9:30, because of the rain, we immediately had a big hill climb. Spirits were not particularly high, but our elevation was.

Today was our first official day of reduced mileage, so we were happy about that. We talked about all the things we could do with our extra time, like taking tripod selfies, taking more frequent breaks, and finishing the day earlier. On that note, we took an extra early snack break, frigidly cold from the 9 degree and wet weather, at a bus shelter at kilometre 20. Continuing on, we had a second morning snack break, for the first time ever, at kilometre 40, getting raisin custard buns at a tiny “Joker” supermarket.

We saw that the next ferry, from Maloy, could either be at 2:35pm or 4:20pm. Having just enough time to get the 2:35 boat, we raced the last 15km and made it with time to spare. The ferry landed at Oldeide, which quickly became Viki’s favourite island. Most of the island had a tiny little road with a single lane and passing points for if two cars were oncoming. The houses were nice, with dry-stone walls around and some built on stilts into the fjord. Two deer ran alongside us for a minute or so, bringing some excitement to the afternoon.

The island also brought the final hill of the day, which we valiently pushed through. The hill ended with a tiny tunnel, with only enough room for a single car. We raced through the 150 meters or so, not wanting to encounter any oncoming vehicles.

Arriving at the ferry terminal of Smorhamm, we saw that we had missed the last express boat of the day to Floro. There are only two a day (and one on weekends) – one at 8am and one at 4:30pm. Fortunately, there is the largest, comfiest waiting area we have ever seen for a ferry. There are chairs, a table, toilets with running water, and even two potted plants. We decided to seize the opportunity to air out all of our soggy things, wash ourselves, and clean our clothes.